Blood, fur flying, shrieks of attack – it’s a rabbit fight club out there! Rabbits are not always the sweet, docile pets they appear to be. When these fluffy creatures engage in combat, it can quickly escalate from harmless tussle to vicious brawl. Unneutered males battling for breeding rights, territorial females defending their turf, or even bonded pairs turning on each other in a fit of redirected rage. Whatever the cause, rabbit fights yield more than just a few tufts of fur. From nasty bite wounds to ripped out eyes, such altercations can turn deadly. Just how violent do rabbits get when they throw down? Let’s hop right in and examine when you need to break up Thumper’s rumble!
Why Rabbits Attack Each Other
Rabbits are highly territorial animals and will fight to protect their territory and establish dominance. In the wild, rabbits live in social groups and have complex hierarchies that are maintained through acts of aggression. Domestic rabbits retain these natural instincts for social structure and will fight with other rabbits to assert their position in the group.
The most common reasons for rabbit fights include:
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Unneutered males competing for territory and access to female rabbits. Intact male rabbits are driven by hormones to be territorial and aggressive. Fights between two unneutered males can be vicious as they battle for dominance and breeding rights.
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Females fighting for territory and resources. Female rabbits can be just as territorial as males. Two unspayed females may fight to claim areas of the enclosure or compete over food, toys, litter boxes, or hiding spots.
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Cross-gender aggression. A male and female pair that hasn't been neutered/spayed may fight due to hormonal instincts and mating behaviors. The male rabbit may harass the unspayed female, prompting her to attack him in response.
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Introduction of a new rabbit. Adding a new rabbit to a bonded pair or group can cause fighting as the rabbits re-establish the social order. All rabbits involved may participate in tussles to determine the new hierarchy.
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Resource guarding. Rabbits that feel a resource is scarce such as food, water, or space may fight to protect what they perceive as theirs. This is especially common in crowded environments.
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Fear and stress. A rabbit that feels threatened may attack another rabbit in self-defense. Illness, pain, or environmental changes can also cause a rabbit to lash out due to fear.
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Redirected aggression. Sometimes rabbits will attack each other as a result of being angry or frustrated about something else entirely. This is known as redirected aggression.
Rabbit fights involve scratching, biting, fur-pulling, circling, and lunging behaviors. While it's normal for rabbits to tussle occasionally to communicate, frequent fighting that results in injuries is problematic and steps should be taken to resolve the source of aggression.
Two Unneutered Males Fighting to the Death
When two unneutered (intact) male rabbits are housed together, brutal fights to the death can occur. Unneutered males are pumped full of testosterone, making them territorial, obstinate, and aggressive. They will viciously fight other males to prove their dominance and claim breeding rights over any females present.
These fights are intense and can even turn deadly. The male rabbits will start by circling each other, sizing up their opponent. This posturing may include standing upright on their hind legs, grunting, and nipping. Once the fight begins, the rabbits will scratch, bite, and tear out fur as they wrestle and try to pin their opponent to the ground.
Ears are often targeted and can be torn and bloodied. The rabbits may repeatedly mount each other in a show of dominance. Urine spraying usually accompanies these fights as they mark territory. Severe injuries commonly result, including nasty bite wounds that require veterinary care. Eyes can even be damaged if a rabbit is bitten in the face.
These brutal fighting sessions can last upwards of 20 minutes. The rabbits are in an adrenaline-fueled frenzy and will keep going until one rabbit submissions or can no longer continue. In some cases, the rabbits fight to the death. The victor claims breeding and territory rights while the defeated rabbit either succumbs to his injuries or leaves if able.
Some signs two unneutered males may fight to the death include:
- Both rabbits are over 3 months old (sexual maturity)
- Observing mounting, circling, grunting behavior
- Noticeable wounds from biting and scratching
- Tufts of fur being ripped out
- High-pitched screaming indicating pain
- A fight that lasts over 15 minutes
The only way to safely house two male rabbits together is to neuter both at around 4-6 months old. This eliminates the aggressive testosterone-fueled behaviors and allows them to peacefully coexist.
Two Female Rabbit Fighting to the Death
While female rabbits are not driven by the surge of testosterone that males experience, two unspayed females can still engage in potentially deadly combat under certain circumstances. Female rabbits fight to assert dominance and claim territory or resources.
Female-to-female aggression usually occurs when the rabbits are confined together in too small of a space. The perceived lack of resources causes the rabbits to viciously fight to protect what they feel is theirs. Crowding breeds aggression as the dominant rabbit tries to suppress the subordinate rabbit.
The hormones of an unspayed female rabbit can also influence her tendency to fight. When rabbits are in heat, their estrogen levels peak and they become moody and territorial. Introducing two unspayed females during this time greatly raises the risk of fighting.
Here are some situations where two female domestic rabbits may fight to the death:
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An older, established female is introduced to a new younger female. The older female attacks the new rabbit who encroaches on her space.
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Two females have been happily living together when one goes into heat. The heightened hormones trigger aggression in the other female.
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Two sisters from the same litter are kept in too small of an enclosure. As they mature, they fight over limited resources.
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A female rabbit gives birth and the other female attempts to steal or kill the kits. The mother viciously defends her offspring.
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One female is sick or injured and the other sees her as weak and vulnerable. The healthy rabbit tries to drive away the weakened rabbit.
Though females are not as territorial as males, their fights can still turn brutal and result in fatal wounds if they feel threatened. To safely house female rabbits together, it's important to spay them and provide plenty of space and resources to minimize competition and aggression. Monitoring their behavior is key to intervening before fights turn dangerous.
Male Rabbit Fighting Female Rabbit to the Death
Introducing an unneutered male rabbit to an unspayed female rabbit can be disastrous and provoke bloody fights to the death. The breeding instincts and hormonal drives of the rabbits lead to aggressive encounters as the male tries to breed and dominate the female.
Here are some scenarios that may result in a deadly fight between a male and female rabbit:
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An unneutered male is placed with a female who is not yet spayed. He tries to mount and breed her relentlessly which prompts her to attack him.
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A bonded male-female pair reaches puberty between 3-6 months old. As their hormones surge, their once peaceful relationship deteriorates into vicious fighting.
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An unspayed female goes into heat and begins attacking the male rabbit who tries to breed with her during this time.
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A female rabbit gives birth and the male rabbit attempts to breed with her shortly after kindling. The defensive mother rabbit lashes out to protect her newborn kits.
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As the female ages, the male rabbit still tries to breed with her. She becomes aggressive each time he pursues her.
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The pair feels overcrowded and lack adequate space. The male gets increasingly aggressive about breeding rights while the female fights back to defend her territory.
The male rabbit will bite the female's neck to immobilize her and try to mount her. The female will respond by scratching, biting, screaming, and attempting to escape. If the male manages to penetrate, the act is very painful for the female which amplifies her aggression.
These encounters can quickly escalate to a fight to the death if the rabbits remain intact. The best way to avoid this situation is to spay and neuter rabbits once they reach 4-6 months old so they can live together peacefully.
Are My Rabbits Fighting Or Playing?
It can sometimes be difficult to discern whether bonded rabbits are play fighting or engaged in actual aggressive combat. Here are some ways to tell the difference between playing and fighting:
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Playfulness – Play fights typically involve binkying, jumping, twisting, and chasing. The rabbits volley back and forth and take turns pursuing each other. Real fights appear more serious and one-sided.
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Body language – Rabbits having fun will have relaxed, upright ears. Their fur remains smooth and their tails down. Fighting rabbits pin back their ears, arch their tails, and puff out their fur.
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Vocalizations – Playful rabbits will grunt or squeak quietly. Angry screams, growling, or loud shrill cries signal an actual fight.
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Facial expressions – Relaxed eyes and mouth indicate play behavior. An aggressive rabbit will bare its teeth and stare intensely.
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Injuries – Play fighting may result in a few nibbles or scratches, but no wounds. Genuine fights lead to bite marks, patches of missing fur, cuts, limping, or blood being drawn.
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Initiation – Play is typically mutual. Both rabbits participate equally. Real fights are one-sided with one rabbit pursuing and one retreating.
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Intensity – Playfighting is sporadic and carefree. The rabbits take pauses and groom each other. Actual fighting is unrelenting once it begins.
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Aftermath – Play concludes amicably. The rabbits are calm following aggressive fights.
Understanding your rabbits' individual personalities and relationship dynamics will help identify when their interactions cross the line from play over to dangerous territory that requires intervention.
Acceptable Behavior in Rabbits
It is normal for rabbits to display some mild aggressive behaviors as they communicate and establish their place in the social structure. Here are examples of acceptable aggressive rabbit behavior:
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Mounting – This demonstrates dominance and is usually followed by grooming. Humping should be brief and not excessive.
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Chinning – Rabbits mark territory by rubbing their chin on items. This deposits scent from glands.
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Circling – Slow, ritualistic circling indicates curiosity or wariness. It is not a prelude to a fight.
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Nipping – Light, brief nips often signify a request for grooming or for another rabbit to move away.
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Grunting – Low grunts are a normal means for rabbits to convey messages.
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Digging – Digging in litter or bedding helps rabbits mark territory.
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Rough grooming – More forceful nipping or plucking during grooming maintains social bonds.
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Displacement – One rabbit nudging another away from a resource they want. Non-aggressive.
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False mounting – Female rabbits mount each other to display dominance. No actual contact is made.
These behaviors help rabbits communicate needs and stabilize their group's social order safely. They are part of natural rabbit society and to be expected. Actual fighting that leads to injury is not acceptable.
Unacceptable Behavior in Rabbits
While rabbits do exhibit some natural aggressive tendencies, violent and excessive fighting should never be dismissed as "normal." Here are examples of unacceptable aggressive behaviors between rabbits:
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Biting that breaks the skin and draws blood. This is more than a nip or grooming bite.
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Grabbing and holding on while biting. Aggressive rabbits will latch onto another and refuse to release.
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Bald spots from excessive fur pulling. Patches of missing fur reveal a vicious fight.
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Repeated mounting with full penetration. This tires out and injures the mounted rabbit.
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Chasing paired with biting and scratching. A rabbit relentlessly pursuing another is not playful.
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Cornering and not allowing another rabbit to escape. Bullying behavior.
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Grunting paired with lunging. Grunting becomes threatening when combined with aggression.
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High-pitched screaming. Screeching in pain or distress signals a vicious fight.
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Chest pressing. Forcefully holding another rabbit to the ground to establish dominance.
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Circling paired with nipping. This indicates an impending fight rather than harmless curiosity.
Any behavior that results in wounds, screaming, fear, or one rabbit dominating another to the point of submissive withdrawal are unacceptable. These signal serious aggression issues that require intervention right away.
What To Do If Rabbits Start Fighting
If your rabbits start fighting, it's important to take swift action to separate them and minimize injuries. Here are the steps to take:
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Make a loud noise – Say "no" in a firm voice or clap your hands loudly to startle the rabbits out of fighting mode.
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Use a water spray bottle – A spritz of water can help break up a minor tussle. Avoid high pressure streams that could harm the rabbits.
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Throw a blanket – Gently placing a light blanket over the rabbits provides a barrier so they pause their altercation.
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Insert an object – Insert a cardboard barrier or gently push a broom between them to obstruct the fight.
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Remove one rabbit – If possible, carefully pick up one rabbit to immediately separate the pair. Avoid getting bitten or scratched.
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Protect yourself – Wear thick gloves and long sleeves in case you need to reach into a major rabbit fight. Do not risk personal injury.
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Check for injuries – Look both rabbits over for any wounds caused by bites or scratches once they are separated.
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Re-evaluate cage setup – Assess their housing situation to identify what resource or space issue triggered the fight.
Taking quick, cautious action to intervene can protect your rabbits from harm. Try to identify what prompted the fight so further incidents can be prevented through proper cage adjustments.
Don’t Ignore the Fight
It may be tempting to assume your rabbits are just establishing dominance and let them "work it out themselves" when a fight occurs. However, you should never ignore rabbit fights. There are several risks if you do not intervene:
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The rabbits can severely injure each other with bites that require veterinary treatment. These wounds are very vulnerable to infection.
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An eye could be damaged if one rabbit scratches or bites the other's face. Partial or total blindness can result.
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One rabbit may terrorize the other to the point of extreme stress, fear, and submission. This is bullying behavior that should not be allowed.
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Fur loss from biting or pulling leaves them at risk for cold stress. Bald areas also invite parasites and skin infections.
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Ears can be torn or ripped which disrupts crucial temperature regulation. Fly strike infection may set in.
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The subordinate rabbit may stop eating due to anxiety and intimidation. This can cause GI stasis and death.
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Urine scald can occur if one rabbit excessively sprays urine on the other's hind end during a fight.
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Without intervention, the altercation may escalate over time to the point of a fight to the death.
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Bonded rabbits can lose their relationship after a vicious fight, leading to chronic stress from the loss.
While establishing social order is natural, ignore rabbit fights can have devastating emotional and physical consequences. Always step in quickly to de-escalate the situation.
Make a Loud Noise
A simple but effective way to get fighting rabbits to disengage is to make a sudden, loud noise. The sharp sound startles them out of their aggressive mindset and interrupts the fight.
Recommended noises to try:
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Clapping your hands forcefully
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Slamming a book or binder shut
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Yelling "no" or "stop" in a deep, commanding voice
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Banging pot lids together
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Slapping a magazine or newspaper on a hard surface
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Blaring an airhorn, whistle, or canned air duster
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Popping open an umbrella near the fighting rabbits
The noise should be abrupt, sharp, and loud enough to get the rabbits' attention. But avoid making truly deafening sounds that could damage their sensitive hearing.
Once the rabbits break apart and look around startled, you can redirect them by offering a treat or otherwise engaging them. This quick distraction resets their mindset.
Making a loud noise works better than yelling alone. The unique nature of the specific sound paired with your disapproving tone captures the rabbits' focus so they pause their altercation and await what happens next.
Separate Them Immediately
At the first sign of aggression between your rabbits, separate them immediately to prevent injuries. Here are some safe ways to quickly intervene:
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Gently pick up one rabbit while allowing the other to remain in the enclosure. Protect yourself from bites and scratches by using thick gloves and sleeves.
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Insert an object like a tree branch, piece of cardboard, phone book, or plastic window screen between the rabbits to act as a physical barrier.
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Use a thick blanket to lightly cover and separate one rabbit away from the other's line of sight.
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Spray a burst of water from a spray bottle onto the fighting rabbits. The sensation can jolt them apart. Avoid high pressure streams.
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Make loud noises like clapping, yelling "no", or blowing a whistle to distract the rabbits from fighting.
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Toss a towel over the rabbits to obscure their vision of each other and provide a barrier.
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If they are in a pen, install a temporary fence or pen divider to separate the areas so each has their own distinct territory.
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Carefully nudge them apart using a broom, mop, or other long handled object. Never put your hands into a vicious rabbit fight.
Taking immediate steps to isolate the rabbits from each other’s presence prevents the aggressive situation from escalating. Quick separation protects both rabbits from potential harm.
Assess Your Rabbits for Injuries
Once you've separated your fighting rabbits, it's crucial to thoroughly inspect each one for any wounds sustained during the altercation. Look for:
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Bite marks – Carefully part their fur to check for puncture wounds on the neck, ears, limbs, and body. Clean any you find with an antiseptic solution.
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Limping or lameness – Feel their legs and hips for signs of pain. It may indicate a bite or muscle injury.
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Fur missing – Look for bald patches where fur was ripped out. Treat any irritated skin.
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Ear damage – Check for any tears, nicks, or cuts on the thin ear tissue and pinna.
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Bleeding – Apply gentle pressure with a clean cloth to any